Minimum Wastage Norman Style Tunic

Basic Directions

  • 3 rectangles 30" X the length you want the tunic.
  • Take one of these rectangles and cut it corner to corner the long way. You will have two large triangles. Set these aside for now.
  • Take the two remaining rectangles and do this to each of them
    fold in half the long way
    measure in from the fold 1/2 of your shoulder to shoulder measurement.
    measure from that mark down to the corner; a dialonel line.
All numbers are in inches
Shoulder to Shoulder18
Shoulder to Neck7
Shoulder to wrist24.1/2
Elbow to Wrist11 1/2
Fist10
Shoulder to forearm17
Shoulder to Knee48
Shoulder to Floor61
Circumferance of upper arm20
This tutorial will show you how to make two different styles of Norman style tunic. First we will design and sew the longer under tuinc. Takes you PRE-WASHED piece of fabric and lay it out to cut. Our undertunic will be blue.
  • Using your measurements cut three pieces 30" by the measurement from your shoudler to the floor.

Next we are going to create the first part of the side gores for the tunic.

  • Take one of the three pieces and fold it in half the long way. We are going to cut this piece corner to corner and then cut the fold. We will end up with 4 right angle triangles.

To create the body panels of the tunic take the remaining two rectangles and perform these steps on each of them.

  • fold in half the long way
  • measure in from the fold 1/2 of your shoulder to shoulder measurement.
  • measure from that mark down to the corner; a diagonal line.
  • you will come out with 4 skinney triangles and two torso pieces. Save the tirangels as they are the rest of your gores.

With our remaining fabric we will be making our sleeves.

  • Take the fabric remaining and measure Shoulder to wrist for length and width use the circumference of upper arm measurement.
  • Once you have this rectangle for your sleeve in half the long way making sure the fold is on the top.
  • On the far end measure down from the fold half of your fist measurement.
  • Measure in from this same end elbow to wrist measurement and make a mark.
  • Cut on the Diagonal line between these two measurements to get a pair of small triangles.
  • These small triangles will be attached to the back of the sleeves to be your under arm gores.
  • Attach these gores before you procede.

Moving on to the actual assembly of the tunic. Please note that the pictures are not often to scale but pieces are exagerated to show a specific thing.

To Make the neck hole in the body.

  • First you need to sew the top of the two body panels together direction across the top. Do not worry, we are indeed dewing up the head hole first step.
  • With the top sew across we will fold the fabric in half the long way.
  • Measure in from the fold 1/2 your shoulder to neck measurement.
  • Measure down from the fold side 2.5 inches.
  • Make a gentle curve between these two measurements and cut out this pie piece.
  • Front here you can finish it with whichever neck you prefer to wear comfortably.

We have our body piece fixed up and we have our sleeves with their two gores already attached. We will now be attaching the sleeves to the body.

  • Fold your sleeves in half the long way and align the center of this line with the seam of the center of your tunic body.
  • Simply sew the sleeve into the body with a single straight line.

After both sleeves are attached we only need to attach the 8 gores to have a fully attached garment.

  • First we attach the Small gores, which came from when you cut out your body, to the body itself.
  • ALWAYS ATTACH THE RIGHT ANGLE AGAINST THE BODY PIECE.
  • Run the small gore right up to the bottom of the gore for the sleeve making sure not to leave a hole but do not overlap too much.
  • Attach the large gores, from the seperate large rectangle, to the Small gores again with the right angle facing towards the body.

Once you have all your gores attached to your body you have a large flapping piece of fabric with slender triangle tips hanging all over the inside of your sleeves. We will deal with these before we match up the sides to finish construction.

  • The key to fitting the gores into the underarm is flat. Make sure to lay out the bottom of the sleeve and top of the underarm gores flat and spread out in order to align the triangle gores and then sew them across aligned with the sleeve gore.
  • once you have sewn the side gores along the diagonal line of the bottom of the sleeve gore you can trim the remaining gore-tails.

After setting your side gores into your underarm sleeves all you need to do is align the sides of the tunic from wrist to underarm to bottom of tunic and sew up each side them hem the bottom and wrists.

Poof its done!